“They’re a little more grown-up.”
It’s early August, and the Corsillo Brothers are in go mode. AW11 ties needs to be shipped to stockists. Details need to be finalized on not one, but two two high-profile collaborations. The build out on their first brick and mortar retail space is about to begin. But first: someone’s got to staple Hill-Side packaging together. Even if you have only a minor interest menswear, you still know who The Hill-Side is. Their utilitarian-inspired ties, bandannas, scarves and pocket squares have made them one of the most popular independent brands in operation today. That said, their packaging isn’t going to staple itself. Younger brother Sandy dutifully steps up to the task.
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LAYERxlayer is a hard brand to pin down. Even with the seemingly endless number of style niches and sub-genres out there, there’s still no one in which the label is a perfect fit. Everything is made in the USA, and almost entirely from American components, but there’s nothing remotely Americana or capital H Heritage about any of it. The pieces tend to be heavily designed, sometimes to the point of bordering on architectural, and yet they’re still tough and functional, and not at all designer-y. Even beyond their appearance, there’s something else about their bags – something more intangible, a little tougher to identify – that just feels different.
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“We’re fabric nerds.”
Outlier co-founders Abe Burmeister and Tyler Clemens aren’t exactly the type of guys you’d expect to start an active apparel label. There’s nothing overtly sporty or jock-ish about them. In conversation, they come off much more NPR than ESPN. And yet, the two have managed to launch a brand that’s quickly becoming one of the most respected in the industry. Why? Because Burmeister and Clemens have succeeded where no one else has: they’ve made high-performance apparel that’s comfortable enough, and handsome enough, to wear in non high-performance situations. In other words, clothing that’s perpetually appropriate, regardless of where you are or what you’re doing.
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Welcome to the second installment of the Makers Series. Over the next four weeks, I’ll be taking you inside the workspaces of some of my favorite brands. Kicking things off, a visit to New York’s Unis.
“I want them to know there’s a person behind this stuff.”
Eunice Lee, founder of Unis, doesn’t mince words. She doesn’t have time to. From sourcing, to production, to her store, to wholesale, there’s not a single facet of her business she doesn’t have a finger in – and most she handles entirely on her own. On the day we met, she had spent the better part of her morning on the phone, dealing with several of her stockists, all of whom were late on their payments. When I asked why she didn’t have a showroom, or some take-no-prisoners rep to handle that, she replied, “because I want those stores to know who they’re hurting. I want them to know there’s a person behind this stuff. And that by not paying, they’re directly affecting me and the people who make my clothes.” Her sincerity was palpable.
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By Caleb Bushner
If there’s one thing the world doesn’t need, it’s another denim brand. And that’s precisely why Tony Patella started Tellason Denim. You see, Tony is the kind of guy who will spend twenty minutes talking about a coffee table. Not because he’s trying to impress you, but because he’s that excited by the craft and design that’s gone into it. It’s, as he would call it, “the right product.” And Tony would much rather buy the right product once, than buy (and replace) the wrong one every season. “In high school I would buy Lacoste polos. They were $60 and made in France. My friends would buy polos from The Gap for $20. But by the end of high school they’d have bought several pairs of ill-fitting, low quality shirts while my Lacoste polos were still looking great. In the long run they spent more money and didn’t have as nice of a shirt.” It’s that kind of long-term thinking that makes his denim company a little different – and a lot better – than most.
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You may have noticed a new advertiser in the upper right corner of the homepage. They’re called Canvas Society and they have a very specific goal: to change the way you think about hemp. Personally speaking, I’ve never been a fan of hemp (in any form, thank you very much). I’ve always thought of it as the least desirable of the sustainable fibers (not to mention the hippiest). However, after perusing the Canvas Society e-store, I’ve started to realize there’s a lot more that can be done with the plant than I previously thought.
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Reader Benjamin recently wrote:
“I’ve been reading a lot lately about all the cancer causing ingredients in men’s toiletries and have decided to go all-natural. Any brands or products I should check out?”
Hey Benjamin, thanks for getting in touch. Between the petrochemicals, artificial colors / fragrances / preservatives and various other man-made nasties found in most commercial grooming products, all-natural is definitely a good way to go. Below are some of my personal favorites, all of which I use on a regular basis.
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The moderately and (very) immoderately priced goods that I’d rather spend it on this month.
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The good folks at LAYERxlayer were kind enough to send over one of their new beach-tastic Cinch Totes, and I’m happy to report that it is an absolute beauty of a bag. Meticulously handcrafted from American grown and woven denim (natural for the body, indigo for the bottom reinforcement and details), the tote is uncommonly tough, and yet, surprisingly lightweight (always a nice feature when it comes to portage, especially summer-specific). What’s most remarkable though, are the many, many details – both construction and cosmetic – found throughout. Lxl is a brand that has built its reputation on sweating the small stuff, dutifully examining every inch of their goods to find yet more opportunities for innovation. And that approach is clearly evident in the Cinch Tote.
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By Caleb Bushner
If you’re into classic menswear, then do yourself the favor of getting acquainted with San Francisco’s Unionmade. Founded by Todd Barket and Carl Chiara, two apparel industry alums with nearly forty years of creative direction and design experience between them, the store harkens back to an era that predates “fast fashion,” offering garments that are simple, durable and timeless. This back-to-basics approach has lead to great fanfare, quickly earning the boutique a reputation for being one of the best in the country.
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Eric Heins, the ever affable and crazy-talented maker behind Corter Leather, recently sent over one of the label’s new Slim Utility Belts, and I gotta tell ya, it is fan-effing-tastic. Hand cut from 14 oz. vegetable-tanned leather, and finished with nickle-plated metal hardware, the belt is as sturdy as it is beautiful (that is to say, very).
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The moderately and (very) immoderately priced goods that I’d rather spend it on this month. Special Two-Days-Too-Late Independence Day Edition.
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With Benefits is a series featuring for-benefit companies — for-profit models that inherently benefit social causes — written by Janette Crawford, founder of the consistently excellent ethical fashion daily Fashion Loves People.
One out of five people in the world can’t see clearly – that’s 1.3 billion people living without proper vision. Earlier this month, you most likely heard about TOMS revealing its next one-for-one product, sunglasses. Inspired by this announcement, I decided to round-up my four favorite brands offering sight to people in need, in exchange for slick new shades.
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Reader Henry recently wrote:
“Now that it’s warm out, I’m trying to use my bike instead of my car as often as possible, and I was wondering if you had any recommendations for good looking bike accessories.”
That’s great to hear Henry, and yes, I do.
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As some of you may already know (get well soon Denim Debate!), I’m a big, big fan of Left Field jeans. So, when founder Christian McCann offered to send over a pair of the label’s new Sunburst Selvedge jeans, I was more than happy to accept. Made with a lightweight, 12.5 oz denim from Japan’s Kaihara Mills, the jeans are a great option for spring / summer. Details are the same as the White Oaks, and they include US-made rivets and buttons, US-made 100% cotton bandanna pocket bags, signature U-stitch coin pocket with hidden selvedge, double chainstitched waistband, Union Special chainstitched hem, and cotton wrapped polyester thread throughout (washes like cotton, but has the strength of poly). As great as all that is, however, the real draw here, of course, is that amazing selvedge edge, and the incredible denim that’s attached to it (and believe me, it really is incredible). More looks after the jump.
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I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: Colorado’s Topo Designs is one damned impressive young label. Started by three friends with a shared affinity for the outdoors (and the many activities contained therein – out in?), the co. deftly mixes the best design and construction elements of gear from the 70s and 80s, with those of contemporary high-end goods from Europe and Japan, to produce a range of bags that are as handsome as they hard-wearing (that is to say, very).
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The moderately and (very) immoderately priced goods that I’d rather spend it on this month.
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Opened in late 2010, Rhode Island’s WHARF has quickly established itself as one of the country’s better menswear shops. Founded by RI native Rob Babigian, the store operates under the belief that, “everyone should have access to the quality goods they want and the craftsmanship they demand.” To achieve this, WHARF carries a wide variety of brands, styles and price-points, so no matter what your budget, or taste, there’s a good chance they’ll have something you like. Along with their extensive stock, the store also offers an impressively accomplished in-house shirting collection. Designed by Babigian, and crafted in New England, the shirts nicely encapsulate all that WHARF stands for: good looks, quality construction, and a fair price. Not surprisingly, they’ve already garnered a loyal following amongst many of the menswear bloggerati.
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